#Izip zuma e3 full
#Izip zuma e3 plus
#Izip zuma e3 simulator

Simulator at may help you see how it works and help you pick the size of controller and battery you'd need to do a particular job. More hills or more headwinds takes more, flatter roads with no winds takes less. A few MPH more than 20 is easy enough say 25mph would probably take 750w or less, depends on conditions.

More power will heat the motor more if it's like most, it can take a little more than 'rated' a lot more continuously might be a problem. If you need higher speed, you'll need higher voltage and higher power than the original provided.

If none of that matters and all you want is to go without pedalling as would probably work just like it already is, once the battery is replaced or fixed. Meaning, how fast you want to go, on what kind of terrain, under what wind / etc conditions, and how quickly you'd like to get started from a stop, etc., and how far you need it to go under worst-case conditions at the highest speed.

Then you can also define the amount of power you need in order to do the job you want under the conditions you have. Some are throttle-only, and some are throttle-controlled while you are pedalling, etc.

#Izip zuma e3 full

Some are PAS-capable (where how you operate the pedals controls the motor), and there are a number of ways those work, from the most common on/off (if pedals are moving, full power at the chosen assist level is provided) to cadence or even torque-based control, where either how fast or how hard you are pedalling controls the amount of motor assist. Some have a display that shows you various info (speed, battery remaining, etc) lets you change some settings, and possibly have multiple levels of assist, etc. They just do what they do the way they were factory set to do it. Some are just a controller, no display, so they typically have no settings or anything you can change. You just need to define what you want the bike to do for you and how you want it to do that, so that you can pick a controller that has the right feature set.

#Izip zuma e3 plus

If it has three phase wires and 5 (or 6) small sensor wires (hall sensors, plus possibly a speed sensor wire) then you can use a sensored controller for better startups from a stop. If it just has three phase wires then you need a sensorless controller. Then you could use any typical brushless ebike / scooter controller for it. If it is a DD hubmotor it'll handle the extra power more easily without overheating as it has less layers for the heat to have to pass thru to get out of the motor (and it has less parts to break from the extra torque on them, no internal freewheel/clutch and gears). If it's a small geared hubmotor (most likely), it may handle that for short periods longer ones depends on how much cooling it gets and how well it is designed for the higher loads. So the bike may also go proportionally faster (depending on whether there is enough watts to overcome air resistance at that speed under the load and road / terrain / wind conditions you're riding in), with greater motor heating from the higher load on it. If the system was 36v before, then going to 48v (assuming a compatible non-speed-limited controller) means the motor will be driven proportionally faster at full throttle, with proportionally more watts (assuming the same current limit). If the system makes a 'buzzing' noise inside the motor, it is probably not sinewave. If it is very very quiet, then the controller is possibly sinewave (but if it is as old as 2015, probably not). The controller and display, if not actually designed specifically for the Zuma, is likely to be custom-firmware and probably not compatible with anything else (probably not even other years of the same model).